Cerkno is a place that you least expect. It’s a place that every musician wishes existed, but seems impossible.
Cerkno, nestled in the mountains of Slovenia, about 2 hours from the capital city of Ljubljana, has a population of around 2000. The dialect is fairly strong, and most people don’t speak Serbian, and its much harder to understand their Slovenian dialect. There is a small ski industry. The ski hotel did not have a single guest at the time. This is a no stop light kind of town. And the people of Cerkno booked ViceVerse to perform in their town. What?
Cerkno is a music haven. Their internationally renown no-nonsense jazz festival is entering its 16th season, its shows in tiny bars across the village, hosting artists like Ken Vandermark, Fred Frith, Francesco Cusa, Myra Melford, Antonio Marangolo and Peter Evans Quartet. Childrens music workshops are held alongside music photography and even “wild food”, where the guide takes the festival goers out into the wooded area around the village to pick herbs, mushrooms and whatever else you can find growing on its own, to make a truly local meal. People come from all over to attend. Cerkno is a best kept secret. There is one grandma that cooks all the meals for the bands who come through town, and they have their very own schnapps, known in English as Bear’s Blood.
The children of the gentlemen who run the jazz festival now run their own club, called CMAK – Center for Alternative Music Culture (respectively). This is a town that have an “alternative” music club, where my own hometown of Boulder doesn’t even have a club. Cerkno is doing something right. The CMAK kids are like a micro tribe within Cerkno, each of them with their bright eyed, big hearted dreadlocked and half shaved signature look. When we arrived Luka and Blanka, who had taken a bus there, were lying in the meadow next to the club, hiding under spring wildflowers. mr NANA held a KidsPatch session for 3 little ones under the age of 5, on stone patio outside CMAK, masking making, with little to no verbal exchange due to the aforementioned language barriers. Upon arrival in Cerkno immediately felt lighter, a sense of elation and physical freedom set in. And of course, we had the most steady wifi of the tour so far. Mario, who runs Cerkno Jazz Festival, put us up in the rooms above his bar, and fed us Bear’s Blood schnapps when we got out of the van. The people were completely welcoming and open. This community has fostered a deep appreciation for music and music as a way of life. It is a built in mode for these folks. The show itself was perhaps better attended than we possibly could have expected, the dreadshaved tribe of CMAK dancing and yelling. These folks would have danced for 2 days straight, or as long as we played music for them. These are the experiences in life that one will never forget.
Few words can describe the feeling that comes from something like this. Inspiration, Meaning, Magic…
I dare to say that Cerkno is a utopia in a sense, or at least a shining example of whats possible when an entire community engages in music and art as a way of life. I can only hope that I can return to Cerkno at some point in the future, and that I can embrace these same principles in my own practices.
Por Vida! – katers
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